A Historical Look at Irish Soda Bread

As St. Patrick’s Day approaches, we are reminded of the Irish’s gracious and welcoming St. Paddy’s saying: “We are all Irish for a day.”

The Society for the Preservation of Irish Soda Bread is not so warm-hearted, however, when it comes to soda breads.  They refuse to let all soda breads be called “Irish” - not even for a day.

The Society is replete with a web page, a Facebook page, and even it’s own merchandise for sale, like Irish Soda Bread tee-shirts, mugs and calendars.  They clearly take their soda bread very seriously, and warn:

If your “soda bread” has raisins, it's not ‘soda bread!’  It's called "Spotted Dog" or "Railway Cake"!  If it contains raisins, eggs, baking powder, sugar or shortening, it's called "cake", not "bread."  All are tasty, but not traditional Irish Soda Bread!

Got it?!  Good. 

So, what’s in a name anyhow?  Shakespeare wrote, “That which we call a rose, would by any other name smell as sweet,” but soda bread, made the traditional way, is not sweet at all.  If you’ve had soda bread in the past, and liked its sugary sweetness, you’ve had what most are now calling American Irish Soda Bread. 

Americans have long appreciated the delicious recipe, and several books published in the UK in 1866 and 1868 give the standard recipe for soda bread with the note that "it is much eaten in the United States."  

So how did a bread that the British consider to be popular in America, become identified with the Irish?

Truth be told, the Irish did not invent soda bread, either.  The Society reminds us all that just like the bagpipes weren't invented by the Scots, soda bread wasn't invented by the Irish. 

The earliest reference to using soda ash in baking bread seems to be credited to American Indians, who used it to leaven their bread.   The Irish later adopted the recipe out of state of poverty that made it the easiest bread to put on the table because it was not always possible to obtain yeast.

Regardless, the difference lies in the ingredients.  The basic ingredients of “traditional” Irish Soda Bread are: flour, baking soda, sour milk (buttermilk) and salt.  The American version adds sugar, baking powder, raisins, buttermilk, and sometimes a sugary glaze on top.

The best way to honor tradition, and to satisfy your sweet tooth come dessert time, is to make both versions.   You’ll find both are very different in taste, and one more suited to eat for breakfast or with dinner, and the other is perfect as an after-dinner snack with a cup of coffee or tea.  You can decide which one fits the occasion.

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day in advance, where we are all Irish for a day…except for our bread.  Enjoy!

Here are the recipes:

"American" Irish Soda Bread

* 3 cups sifted flour
* 3 tablespoons sugar
* 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
* 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
* 1/2 teaspoon of salt
* 1 cup dry sugar water-soaked raisins
* 1 1/3 cups buttermilk

For optional "glaze" on top:

* 1/2 cup powdered sugar
* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
* 2-3 teaspoons of milk
* 3-4 drops of green food coloring (optional)

Directions:

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 1 1/4 hr.

1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper
2. Sift flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt
3. Stir in currants and milk
4. Combine until well blended
5. Ddough will be sticky
6. Turn out onto floured board and knead 10 times, until smooth
7. Shape into an 8" round loaf
8. Place on ungreased cookie sheet (or on parchment paper)
9. Cut an "x" with a knife into the top of the loaf
10. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes
11. Remove from oven; pour glaze over the top

"Traditional" Irish Soda Bread

* 2 1/2 cups all-pupose flour
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1 teaspoon baking soda
* 1- 1 1/4 cups buttermilk

Directions:

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 50 minutes

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper
2. In a large bowl, combine all dry ingredients and stir together.  Add buttermilk and mix with a large spoon (or with your hands) until the dough comes together.  You might need two tablespoons more or less buttermilk depending on the weather.  The dough should be moist, but not so sticky that it is hard to handle.
3. Shape into a round and place on baking sheet.  Cut an "x" into the top with a sharp knife and bake for about 45 minutes, until dark golden.  A toothpick will come out clean when done.
4. Cool on a wire rack for about 10 minutes before slicing.